Lately, I’ve feeling the need for some fresh, new pants silhouettes in my wardrobe. After trying out the Arenite Pants, I wanted to continue my “massively oversized pants” journey and find something that would work well for the transition into fall. I honestly don’t even know how I stumbled upon this pattern, it hasn’t had a ton of traction in my corner of the internet yet, but I think that needs to change! This is the Wide Leg Pants pattern made by In the Folds for Peppermint Magazine.
Not only is it FREE, but it also goes up to a size 54″ hip (you have to download the pattern to find the size chart), which is something rarely seen in free patterns. I found it to be impeccably drafted and well fitting; I will definitely be keeping my eye out for more patterns from this line. In fact, I also made the Peplum Top, and though it required some fit adjustments, I’m happy with it as well. And now I have my eye on all the patterns from In the Folds! I could have sworn they had a smaller size range, but I just checked out the website and the patterns go up to a 49.5″ bust and a 54.75″ hip. Yay! There may be a Collins Top in my near future.
As for these pants, well, they live up to their name. They sure are wide legged! Half the time I wear them I feel like a clown and the other half I feel like I’m having a chic European adventure. I’ve only worn them twice so far because I’m having a hard time figuring out what to pair them with. I think I need to work on making some more tightly fitted AND cropped tops, all of my current tops only fit one or the other of those categories.
As for fit, I was quite impressed. I have had more fitting troubles with LESS fitted pants patterns than with more fitted pants patterns, if that makes sense. I think it is down to the fact that I can’t rely on stretch and negative ease when I am not making skinny jeans! My measurements fell between sizes, but closer to the “I” size so I cut that. I preemptively added an inch to the back crotch curve, which may have been slightly excessive. I may reduce it a bit if I make the pattern again. After cutting the pattern pieces, I basted to fit and decided to take in the side seams a bit to account for the fact that I used a slightly stretchy denim (maybe 1/2″ each?) and then scooped out the back crotch curve a bit more.
While the final back fit isn’t perfect, its MILES ahead of many other loose fitting pants I’ve tried (Style Arc Kerry Cargo Pants, Jalie’s pull on pants, a Lekala pattern drafted off my measurements, just to name a few…). However, if you know how I can get rid of that long draping drag line from my high hip to calf, I am all ears. But before you suggest it, know that I’ve tried many iterations of the knock knee adjustment without much luck. I think my fit issue relates to the fact that the fullest part of my hip is only inches below my waist, and I have essentially no hip curve below that. This forces the pants to hang off my high hip, which is not typically what they are designed to do. I think that for most women, the fullest part of the bum is near the bottom (lets say a pear shaped bum), while mine is near the top (I like to describe as a heart shaped bum). I keep googling fit advice for that, but no luck yet. I guess its up to me to solve this issue and then spread the gospel to other ladies “blessed” with the heart shape bum 😉
This pattern has great front pockets with a nice, substantial waist stay that actually works for me. In my skinny jeans, I’ve been making the waist stay from stretch fabrics, but I was able to get away with quilting cotton for this one. After reading some reviews online, I discovered that the fly is put in reverse from how it is typically done in womens’ pants. Maybe the pattern designer was going for menswear inspired, but I figured that would drive me nuts and decided to reverse it. That should have been a quick fix but this pattern used a different fly construction technique from what was used in the Ginger/Ames jeans. Between trying to learn a new technique and doing in reverse, I’ll just say I ripped the thing out quite a few more more times that I would have liked. However, I’m happy to have learned a new technique, and one that doesn’t involve clipping into the crotch curve at any point.
After a very scientific instagram poll, someone suggested to me that I use a trouser hook instead of a button. Genius! I never would have thought of that but I love how it ended up looking. It really pulled these together as “refined jeans”, which is something that fits perfectly into a New Mexico wardrobe. You don’t see a lot of dress pants around here, but there is definitely a place in my wardrobe for a pair of pants that say “I made a little more effort than just wearing my everyday jeans”.
All in all, I am super happy with these pants, I just need to figure out how to style them. And how to wear them with boots in the winter! If I can pull that off, I will be a happy lady. Is there room for another pair of these in my wardrobe? Probably not right now, but thats the beauty of a free pattern. However, I am wondering if I can narrow the leg a bit, lengthen them, and end up with a totally different looking pair of pants.
Just the Facts:
Pattern: In the Folds for Peppermint Magazine Wide Leg Pants
Current Measurements: Hip 52-52″, Waist 41-42″
Size: “I”, taken in a bit after basting to fit. 1″ added to the back crotch curve and an additional 1″ scooped out under the bum
Fabric/Notions: Mystery stretch denim from the stash, Dritz trouser hooks, stash zipper