I’m not going to lie, when Helen first released the York Pinafore, I though to myself “what a strange garment”. It seems like pinafores might be a trendy garment elsewhere, but it takes a while for trends to reach us here in New Mexico. However, over the course of the last year, I somehow developed a York Pinafore sized hole in my closet! Large pockets, no waistline, and goes well with leggings? Honestly, what more could you want from a garment? Nothing, I say!!
Of course, the original pattern didn’t come in my size, but fortunately it was second on the list for Helen to make in her new size range. I was waiting impatiently when the tester call finally came and volunteered right away! I printed the pattern off immediately and sewed it the next Saturday. It is such a quick project, but it has a huge wardrobe impact! This item has really made me reimagine my whole style (and now I need more close fitting tees).
I made this tester version in a stretch corduroy that has been in the stash for forever, though I think it was originally from Joann’s. This was essentially my first time working with corduroy, though I had dabbled with it once when I first started sewing. I wasn’t going to treat it specially since its has a low nap and is a very fine wale and I thought it would be fine, but upon pressing the first seam (the center back seam, which you can see below), I realized that it could actually benefit from special handing. And by special I mean I laid an old towel over my ironing board and made sure to only press from the back side. Easy peasy, and it kept the nap from being crushed.
This pattern calls for 4 meters of bias tape, so I went with store bought. I am just not a fan of making bias tape and I don’t feel like it ever turns out as well as when I buy it. Fortunately, my local quilting store had two packages of 1/2″ double fold bias tape, which was exactly what I needed. To be honest, you can see that I had some trouble getting rid of the puckers when I finished the arm holes, and I’m not sure if its down to the stretch in the corduroy or the bulk of it, but its not majorly horrible and won’t keep me from wearing it. This is a lot of bias tape, so you just sort of have to get in zen bias tape mode and enjoy the process.
This is a 20-22-24. Helen includes a lot of great fitting info in the pattern, including details of how to grade between sizes. I removed 1/2″ at each of the lengthen/shorten lines (one above the bust and one below) for a total of 1″ removed above the waist on both the front and back pattern pieces. I’m about 5’7″ tall but most of that is in my legs. I noted that the versions of the York I liked the most had the cut out hit close to the high waist than the low waist area, so I didn’t want that sitting too low. I cut the shorter length of the pattern and did not add back in the inch I removed from the bodice length, but I may do that eventually as this feels borderline too short to wear to work.
I typically need a swayback adjustment, but honestly I’m not seeing any issues here. I’m really happy with the fit all around and have already made another version in denim. I did have to add a center back seam. To maintain the nap of the corduroy, I couldn’t follow the cutting layout, which calls for the front and back pattern pieces to be cut in opposite directions. Note this if you are using a directional print of fabric with a nap, you may need a little more fabric than called for.
The pattern has two necklines, two lengths, and two pocket options, so I think you can easily get away with multiple Yorks in your closet, which I know I plan to do! Plus, I feel like this garment is really just giving the finger to the patriarchy, which brings me great joy. It’s the opposite of traditionally flattering and has huge pockets, take that fashion industry!
Just the Facts:
Pattern: York Pinafore from Helen’s Closet
Current Measurements: Bust: 45″, Waist 41″, Hip 52″
Size: 20-22-24
Fabric/Notions: Stash stretch corduroy, premade 1/2″ bias tape
This pattern was provided to me in exchange for my pattern testing services.
The Green Violet 
Dang it, Megan! I thought the York Pinafore was one pattern I would never want to sew. It reminded me too much of the jumpers I wore as a kid (I remember one striped number with particular dislike; the late 80s were an unkind era for children’s clothing), but now you’ve shown me that the York can actually be…cute. Modern even. It looks so good! I even like the round-y pockets. I guess I have to add another pattern to the list. 😉
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haha!! Sorry not sorry!! 😜 It took me a while to come around to the pattern too, but now I’m kind of obsessed! I think this will look great on you and you will love it too!
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Thank you. The money flew out of my pocket in an exact imitation of the “cash with wings” emoji, hahaha!
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I’m not a huge fan of this pattern, but this one looks really good on you (dare I say that it is, in fact, flattering …)! Nicely done.
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Thank you!!
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I’m not a big fan of this pattern, but this one looks great on you (and, dare I say, flattering!). Nicely done!
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Thank you!
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I love the pattern and I think the puckers are adorable . I thought you did them on purpose or part of the design.
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Thank you! When in doubt, go with “design detail” 😬
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It looks fabulous, love it in the corduroy too. I made it when it originally came out and did a hell of a lot of adjustments to it to make it fit, I got the PDF update yesterday so will give it a try again. We’re the same measurements so I find all your posts helpful, thanks.
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That is great!! My adjustments were super easy so I hope they work for you too!
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That looks good on you: I like the shape and proportions. And no one will ever call you out on the center back seam unless you point it out. But bias binding? Nope. I’d be more inclined to just…..line the whole thing. Or do a facing and make the topstitching rows my fashion detail. I love bias binding, but anything heavier than a novelty cotton and I get the hives. If you ever meet my sister and look at the wool binding on her winter coat cuffs, you’ll know why. Not my finest mending work (but only if I point it out to you…..)
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I do think a facing would have looked good here- I’m not sure why it wasn’t included as at least an option in the original pattern. Maybe just because it would use so much fabric for the huge arm holes? Of course, easy enough to draft on my own and I may end up doing that at some point.
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This turned out incredibly cute! I never really like the look of corduroy on myself, I often feel a little bit like a couch, but this particular corduroy looks very soft and subtle. I also like the color, it looks almost off-black / anthracite gray. For the bias tape I always use a walking foot and I never have any puckers again. Or I just clip the fabric in the round parts. Either way this pinafore looks totally cute on you!
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Yeah, this is a really small wale and a thin fabric, so it doesn’t have that couch look! I agree its a fabric I’ve mostly avoided, it seems like it would mostly be overly warm and would grab onto everything. I really do need to get a walking foot! I think that is definitely part of the problem and that quilt I just make- OMG on trying to bind that. It was a major walking foot needed moment.
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God I looooooove clothes that women love and men hate. You look smashing while smashing the patriarchy. :}
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HAHAHAHA. ME TOO!!! Thanks!
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