This is my first make from Sew Liberated, but it won’t be my last! I remember checking them out when I first started sewing but I didn’t fit in their size range. However, at some point when I wasn’t looking, Sew Liberated expanded their size range! As far as indie patterns go, they are doing pretty well with bust sizing up to 48.5″ and hips up to 51″, so I decided to give the Stasia Dress a go. Something about the styles from this pattern maker just really appeal to me.
Unfortunately, this pattern did suffer from some of the issues we often see from patterns that might have been graded a bit past their limits, at least in my experience. You probably know what I mean: wide shoulders, sleeve, and armscye issues. These are always exacerbated on me because of my pear shape. Fortunately, with a knit, these things are quick and easy to fix and I ended up with a dress I love.
I cut the pattern out in a 20-22-24 to coordinate with my (approximately/ever changing) measurements of 45-41-51, which gave me a little more negative ease than called for at the waist, but in my experience is normally fine with knits. I then compared it to my well fitting Turner Dress pattern in size 16CD-18-20 and ended up hugely narrowing the front bodice above the bust to a size 12 width and size 16 length.
That fixed me up pretty well, though I had some issues with the sleeve cap being super high. I shaved it down after sewing it up initially, and you can see that a little bit on my sleeve photo below, but to be honest I think I forgot to record my changes on the pattern pieces after I made those alterations. Grrrrrr.
After I fixed those issues though, everything else fit pretty well. I may shorten the bodice about 1/2 an inch next time, I guess it will depend on my fabric. And from these photos, it looks like I might need to shorten it a bit more above the bust, which isn’t unusual for me, I’m pretty short between my bust and shoulder. And maybe make the sleeve a little wider, depending on the fabric choice.
I really love the special little details of the V in the bodice and the seams on the skirt add some detail and make the fabric use much more efficient. And just look at the beautiful scoop back.
I made this in another double brushed poly from Imagine Gnats (and its still in stock!). The only problem is that the DBP is kind of clingy so I’m having a hard time wearing it with leggings- any suggestions? I think I need to make some short slips, I had some a few years ago but they all fell apart.
Although it sounds like a lot of changes, it ones that I am used to making. Unfortunately, when you are at the top of the size range, it seems like many indie patterns just haven’t been thoroughly tested or graded very thoughtfully. And I do recognize that there is a larger range of body types as you go up in the size chart, so I’m sure this draft might work for someone who is more of an inverted triangle body type, the opposite of my pear shape. That said, I’m really happy with the finished dress and I’m sure I’ll make more! Most of the time, a little fitting hassle is totally worth it. And I have the newest pattern from Sew Liberated up high on my “to-sew” list. I’m excited to try out a different pants silhouette for the summer!
Thanks for reading and hope this was helpful for other curvy ladies!