After my success with my Ames Jeans over the winter, I felt the need to SEW ALL THE PANTS. Even though I was happy with my Ames, I had always wanted to try the Ginger Jeans, I had just been put off by the well documented inconsistency in sizing in the upper ranges, plus the fact that I was technically out of the size range. However, once you start sewing jeans, its hard to stop so I forged on! These were made back during Me Made May and have seen a fair bit of use since then.
These are made in my favorite Allegro Denim from Stonemountain and Daughter. If you would like to compare them to the Ames in my previous post, the gray pair is made from the same fabric in a different colorway. I’m fairly certain the hardware is from Threadbare Fabrics, though as you can see I still haven’t added the rivets and I keep thinking that maybe I’ll let them out just a tiny bit. Can’t put in rivets until the fit is finalized!
This being something like my 10th pair of pants and my 5th pair of jeans , I was armed with more knowledge and pre-empted the pants-fitting battle with a few adjustments. Though my hips measured approximately 51″ and the size 20 of the Ginger’s claims to fit a 48″ hip, I decided to only grade the back pattern piece up to a size 22, giving myself about an extra inch of room. When comparing the Ames and Gingers, the Ames have a side seams that sits a bit forward, which IMO results in a more traditionally flattering fit. I was hoping this adjustment would help mimic that.
I lengthened the pattern by an inch because I always like to err on the side of caution, I’ve had far too many pants end up too short! After basting to fit and a very helpful discussion on Instagram with Alina of Dogwood Denim, I also decided to add an extra 0.5″ in length to the front pattern piece, which would be eased into the back pattern piece between the hip and thigh. I think this adjustment was the single most helpful thing I could have done, it cleared up a lot of the back of the thigh wrinkles that I normally have on pants.
What I didn’t realize is that this pattern was already designed to have 0.5″ eased in along the inner thigh seam, but not the outer, so I ended up easing in a total of 1″ along the inner thigh seam and 0.5″ along the outer thigh seam. I’m sure there is some pattern drafting reason behind this, but I don’t know what it is. I have already adjusted the pattern so that a full inch will be eased in along both seams next time I use it. This also tilted the pattern in a traditional “knock knee” type adjustment, which I am hoping will further help those diagonal lines pointing towards my inner thigh. I guess I’ll just have to make another pair to find out!
My final pre-cutting adjustment was to add a full 1.5″ to the back crotch curve below the yoke, and I sure did need it! I’m not sure that is an adjustment I’ll ever escape.
After sewing, I had to experiment quite a bit with the leg width. I made these a few months back, but as far as I can tell from my notes and pattern pieces, I ended with a 1″ seam allowance through the the thighs and then had to taper them pretty significantly below that to an 18 at the ankle. However, I’m thinking about letting the calves out a little again, I really hate it when my calves feel like sausages in a casing!
I also have a bit of leg twist happening, though I made so many adjustments to these during fitting that I’m not sure if I can blame the pattern, though if I recall correctly, I have read a few blog posts suggesting this pattern has that issue. I’m hoping my final back thigh adjustment may help fix that next time I use the pattern. My other nit pick is that I feel like the proportions of the front are a bit off on me. I think the front is too wide and the pockets look a bit comical and decidedly not RTW.
Overall, I’m really happy with the fit, though as you can see I went through quite a process to get there! I’m not sure I’m ever going to get a pattern that fits right off (unless I figure out how to draft it myself), but at least I’m learning how to make improvements as I go.
So, now to answer the question I often get asked: Gingers or Ames? I think if you are a curvy lady like myself, the proportions on the Ames are far superior, not to mention the larger size range. If I make the back leg adjustments to my Ames that I made to my Gingers, I think the fit would be at least as good if not better. When I was making my Ames, I was trying to sort out my fit issues, and I think I know a lot more now then I did then. However, if you want something super high waisted, then the Gingers are clearly the way to go!
Just the Facts:
Pattern: Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans
Size: 20 in the front, graded up one size to a 22 in the back. Lengthened one inch. Multiple fit alterations made to back pattern piece.
Fabric/Notions: 9.5 oz, 2% spandex, 25% stretch Allegro Stretch Denim in Blue from Stonemountain and Daughter. Notions from Threadbare Fabrics. I highly recommend both this denim and the notions kit! Best I’ve found on both counts.
As always, thanks for reading and let me know if you have any questions!