I had the pleasure of testing the new and improved Blackwood Cardigan from Helen’s Closet. I love the one I made last year and I wear it all the time, but the biggest pleasure in making this new version is that I am now in her new size range! Thats, right the Blackwood Cardigan is now available up to size 30 and the larger size range is drafted for a D cup!
I love my new version of the Blackwood, it definitely fits better than the one I made last year. I have enough room for my hips. Yay! This is my tester version, so a few changes has been made to final fit as a result of the testing process (thanks, Helen!). Excess fabric has been removed from between the armscye and the front band, the shoulder seam has been narrowed slightly, and the bicep is slightly larger. All great changes for a great curvy fit!
I made this version in the 18D at the bust graded up to a 24 at the hips. I typically grade between three sizes in patterns, but I was a little worried about having to grade between four on this pattern. However, it worked just fine and the curve out at the hip didn’t end up being too extreme (which sometimes happens). Since I was testing, I didn’t make any other adjustments to the pattern, but I am looking forward to sewing the final version next time.
I made this version in a different colorway of the fabric I used for my last Blackwood, this organic hemp/cotton blend sweater knit from Stonemountain and Daughter. It is still one a my favorite fabrics and it breaks in so nicely over time.
I’m especially appreciative of how thoughtfully Helen has rolled out this pattern release. You can see all the details on her blog, but I really appreciate that we won’t have to buy her two size ranges separately. Pattern designers take note, this is how to do it right! Thanks for the opportunity, Helen, I look forward to sewing all your patterns in the new size range!
Just the Facts:
Pattern: Helen’s Closet Blackwood Cardigan
Current Measurements: Bust: 45″, Waist 41″, Hip 52″
Size: 18D-20-24
Fabric/Notions: Organic hemp/cotton blend sweater knit from Stonemountain
This pattern was provided to me in exchange for my pattern testing services.
The Green Violet 
Oh Megan it looks so cozy! I have made most of my Blackwoods from lighter material and haven’t been wearing them this winter :-(. Is the hemp/cotton warmish? It looks like it should be.
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Its not really that warm since its cotton.. warm enough for me for sitting in the office all day, but not terribly cozy. I actually like the weight of it but I think I must run warmer than most people, I could never wear a sweatshirt all day at work, I would get too hot!
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I LOVE IT. And now I know what size to make, haha.
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So true!!! Haha!
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So glad that Helen is moving into the plus sizes. The D cup make a big difference. The thing that jumped out at me is this — the shoulder seam is sitting to the back and not on the top of the shoulder. This would need an upper back adjustment to correct.
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Yes, I agree. And I think she has fixed this in the final pattern, as I mentioned above. I haven’t tried the final version of the pattern yet.
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